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Winter Pruning of Fruit Trees
Winter Pruning of Fruit Trees Winter is the time to think about pruning many plants in the garden. However, never prune for the sake of pruning. Prune only those plants that will benefit from pruning or will conform to the plant’s purpose(s) by being pruned. Roses are a good example of plants that benefit from pruning, as do raspberries, clematis and sometimes hydrangeas, lilacs and others. Here are a few suggestions of plants that benefit from winter pruning and suggested ways of pruning them. Late winter is a good time to do some pruning on apple and pear trees. Remove any diseased branches and thin the remainder to open up the trees for better light exposure and good air circulation through the tree. CHERRY - Prune moderately, lightly prune the most vigorous shoots. PEACH - Prune for low, ball-shaped top at a clean trunk. Vigorously prune one half of previous years growth. Keep center of tree open for good air circulation. PEAR - Prune young tree to a central leader. Prune lightly to thin excess branches and encourage a spreading tree. PLUM - Prune moderately and a little each year at the crown to keep shoots coming on. Pruning should encourage plant health, not plant disease; therefore, it is important to prune properly using the correct pruning tools. For general cleanup hand pruning shears are used, loppers may be used for branches up to one half inch, a pruning saw can be used for larger branches. All tools should be kept sharp. Sharp tools not only cut easier, but will also reduce bruising the plant tissue. Bruising the plant causes slower healing of the wound and causes an increase in the probability of disease. A clean cut should be made. This means the cut surface should have a smooth surface not a rough one that looks as if the tissue has been torn or pulled. Care should be taken not to injure the plant around the cut, or rip or tear the bark above or below the cut. The cambium layer, a thin layer of cells just below the bark is important in wound healing, and is easily injured. Do not twist or turn the shears as you cut because you will injure the plant as well as your shears. Painting the wounds with tree wound dressing has lately become a controversial practice. The standard recommendation has been to paint all wounds over 1 inch in diameter with a quality tree wound dressing to protect the cut surface from woodrotting organisms and checking (radial cracking) upon drying. Some research has shown that upon exposure to the sun, the protective coating often cracks, and moisture enters the cracks and accumulates in pockets that may occur between the wood and the wound covering. This situation would be even more inviting to wood-rotting organisms than one with no wound cover. In situations where aesthetics are important, Spray paint may be used. Fixed copper can help prevent fungal and bacterial diseases. More information is available at http://www.GuruGardener.com |
The Guru Gardener
| Western Cascade Fruit Society
| Plant Amnesty
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